If you want to get the job done right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and really see what's going on. When upon a time, this involved spending significant money. Now there are most likely half a dozen out there that are incomparably cost effective. Without a borescope, you're working blind.

 

It is 2 separate jobs. You get to deal with powder fouling. Second, you have to get rid of copper fouling. Just then are you done. There are all sorts of quality gun-cleaning items out there. Here is a list of what I utilize. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods. They can be found in.

 

Take your spot rod, and put three solvent spots up the bore. When it does, follow with a dry spot.

 

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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or simply a faint wash of copper occasionally, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and swellings and streaks, it's back to the J-B.

 

If you don't have a borescope, run a solvent patch up the bore and let it sit, muzzle slightly down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, however if it has green or blue spots, back to the J-B.

 

As a guideline, the more you invest on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will foul. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. I've had one or 2 cases where a barrel all of a sudden started to group as I reached the end of the procedure, however I have actually had far more burglaries that made no distinction at all.

 

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They work, sometimes, but if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but excellent, and since I'm at the age where I forget things, I hesitate to take the opportunity. They're hell on stock finishes. With a bolt-action, go simple on the Break-Free.

 

Take a cue from the military, whose lives depend on their guns going bang. They desire them immaculate. And spotless is an excellent method to go.

 

The actions to correctly clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field stripping or total disassembly. Due to the range of rifles, complete disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this post.

 

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Get additional information on the firearm, check here.

 

Using a cleansing tool, such as a utility brush or cleaning swabs, and get rid of any loose particles that may be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber. Heavy fouling can be removed with a light application of cleaner and permitting it to sit for a couple of minutes prior to brushing.

 

One common misconception is that more is much better when it comes to lubrication of your firearm.

 

The treatment is easy. Soak a couple spots in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Remember, keep your barrel secured or pointed down to avoid any solvent collecting near the actionsee Action 1.) Allow it to sit, and bear in mind that getting rid of copper can take a while.

 

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If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Just let it sit again, and repeat. If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Just let it sit once again and repeat. Bill Buckley Note: There's a great deal of speak about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.

 

What you do not want is to let any ammonia solvent dry in there. As soon as you're pleased that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry patches down the bore, followed by a couple of spots that have actually been wet with a regular cleansing solvent. Run three or four dry spots down the bore to get rid of any remaining solvent.